Author Archives: hounslowvets

Tick remover

Tick borne disease in dogs and tick treatments

tick

Tick borne diseases

At the present time, the risk of your pet picking up any disease from ticks in the London area is still  low.  Lyme disease can be spread to pets and people from ticks, but we have not seen any cases of pets picking up this disease whilst living in the London area to date. However we are aware that Lyme disease may be present in ticks in Richmond park,  and may be present in other parks particularly where deer are present, and so we do recommend tick treatments in these areas.

 

  • A new tick borne disease called Babesiosis which uptil now had not been found in the UK,  has recently been reported to have been found in four dogs in Harlow, Essex  that had not travelled abroad.  It can cause a severe anaemia, which can be fatal. The risk of picking up any disease in the London area remains very low at the present time, but we will monitor for any changes in the situation, and will post again if this changes.

 

  • If you see a tick on your pet- we suggest removing them with an O’Tom tick twister which you can purchase from the surgery, which slides under the body of the tick and by twisting causes the tick to release its grasp on the skin. You should not pull them out with tweezers as this can leave the head in the skin which may cause a reaction. If you would like to use other tick prevention/ killing products with or without Advocate or Stronghold, the most effective options are the Seresto collar for cats and dogs lasting 7 months, Bravecto tablet lasting 2-3 months for dogs only , or Advantix spot on monthly for dogs.

 

tick remover for dog and cat

O’Tom Tick twister

Lily

Microchipping – law changes

  • From April 6th 2016 all dogs must be microchipped and registered on a commercial database, by 8 weeks of age. Further if a dog’s ownership is transferrred, the owner has a further duty to register the microchip with the new owner.

 

How a microchip works

A microchip is the size of a grain of rice.

 

  • Although there is no requirement in law at the present time, we also recommend microchipping all cats.

 

  • A microchip is roughly the size of a grain of rice and is placed under the skin between the shoulder blades. The procedure  is very quick (only taking a few seconds) . The microchip contains a 15 digit unique number that will be registered on a national database, together with the owner’s details. It is not a GPS tracker device. It does however ensure permanent identification for your pet, and the number is easily read  in seconds  by passing a reader device over the skin .

 

  • We regularly have strays handed into our surgeries and the first thing we check them for is a microchip. It is very important to keep your information up to date on your pets microchip – don’t forget – if you move house, get a new phone number, change your email address – make sure you change your pets microchip information so you can always be contacted.

 

  • This will provide many benefits especially in re-uniting injured pets and strays with their owners. Approximately 126000 stray dogs were handled by UK authorities in 2010-2011 and 52% were unable to be returned to their owners as they were unidentifiable.
Treacle hiding

Kitten care- training, feeding, vaccinating, fleas

 

 

Feeding

Try to continue the same food that the breeder was feeding at least in the first few days. You may then mix in a new kitten food if you would like to change it over the next few days. Kitten food will have all the nutrients and vitamins they require, and vitamin supplements are not needed. If your kitten develops diarrhoea, you should stop the kitten food and feed boiled chicken or fish for a couple of days. Cats do not need milk once they are eating kitten food and it can cause diarrhoea. Fresh tap water should be available at all times. Continue feeding 3x daily until 6 months old, and then 2x daily.  Dry food is better for your cats teeth as they get older and may be more convenient in warmer weather than wet food, but a mix of wet and dry may be offered.

 

Black and white cat

Black and white cat Minnie Moo

 

  • Worming

Most kittens will have worms which have been passed from their mum. They will need worming when acquired ( usually around 8-9 weeks of age), with either  tablets or more commonly a spot on treatment from the vet.

 

 

  • Vaccinations

Are strongly recommended to protect your kitten from air born viruses such as cat flu, and cat enteritis (diarrhoea). Leukaemia vaccination’s are also usually included, and recommended for any cat that will go outdoors. Yearly vaccination boosters are required to maintain their immunity.

 

 

  • Training

Kittens are not as easy to train as dogs – cats are just more independent ! However they should be provided with cat scratching posts, and should have lots of toys to play with. A piece of paper rolled up into a ball can give a lot of fun! Avoid playing with cotton thread or wool as they are dangerous if swallowed. If they are badly behaved with biting an scratching, do not tell them off as they won’t understand and it may make them fearful. Just ignore them by leaving the room or by putting them in an area by themselves.

 

 

  • Flea treatment

Should be used regularly particularly for outdoor cats ( but indoor cats may also pick up fleas, possibly brought in on clothing, or by other pets). We generally recommend monthly spot on treatment with Stronghold ( which also treats the common worms -roundworm), but flea injections given every 6 months are also available. Flea collars and most flea treatments from supermarkets are ineffective, and flea treatments from the vet are far more effective in preventing flea infestations occurring.

 

 

For further information on kitten and cat care see our blogs  on

 

 

How to stop kittens and cats scratching furniture

Tips to stop your cat spraying or toileting in the house

How to train your kitten to play without biting

Choosing a kitten – top ten tips

Cat carriers- how to get your kitten or cat to enjoy going in

 

Black cat Louis

Tips to stop your cat spraying or toileting in the house!

cat litter 1

 

 

  • Why do cats urinate or toilet outside of their litter tray?

A common misconception is that cats may be punishing you as their owner, for leaving them alone for too long. Cats do not do this, there will always be another reason.

 

  • Medical Problems

Cystitis causes an increased urgency, but normally with blood in the urine. Kidney problems, thyroid problems may cause your pet to drink more and so need to urinate more.

 

  • Cat litter box problems-


 

1-Cats may not like using a soiled litter tray,  clean it out frequently. Do not use ammonia containing detergents in the box as to the cat it may smell like cat urine ( which contains ammonia).

 

2-If the sides of the box are too high, an elderly cat may struggle to get into it, or a small kitten may have difficulty.

 

3-The type of litter used

Finer clumping litter or coarse non clumping litter may be preferred by an individual cat. Try different types of litter

Avoid using scented litter. Most cats prefer non-scented litter.

 

 

4-The location of the litter box

 

Avoid placing the litter tray in a noisy, busy or dark area.

If another cat, dog, or human scares your cat when she’s in the box, or attacks her as she leaves, she may not want to use the litter box.

 

 

5-Cats that do not want to use the litter tray usually toilet on different surfaces. You may find  urine and/or faeces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing, or on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on the severity of your cat’s aversion, he may continue to use the litter box, but intermittently.

 

 

  • Inappropriate Site Preferences

Your cat may prefer using another surface, for instance carpets- and if so would not use a tiled bathroom floor. Alternatively your cat may choose to use the same inappropriate site – likely due to not wanting to use the litter tray. Unfortunately a medical problem such as cystitis may lead on to another problem such as preferring to use another type of surface.

 

  • Urine Spraying

If your cat rubs with his cheek, or scratches a surface, they are leaving their scent on the area. Similarly cats will sometimes spray small amounts of urine to leave their scent. This marks out their territory.

 

When cats spray it is  usually  on vertical surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls. They don’t crouch down to spray (as they do to urinate), but lift the tail which quivers, leaving a small patch  of urine, often in the same places in the house.  Un-neutered males and sometimes, un-spayed females spray most commonly, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In households with multiple cats (particularly more than 7) the likelyhood of spraying is markedly increased.

 

Cats often spray when if their territory is threatened, such as when a new cat enters the home, or when neighbourhood cats come into their garden or house. New furniture and carpet smells may induce spraying behaviour.  Cats also may spray if their routine is altered, such as a significant reduction in food availability.

 

 

  • My cat is not using the litter box reliably. What should I do?
    The longer the cat has had the problem, the more likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to separate them until you can be sure which one is causing the problem. If it is a faecal soiling problem,  you can feed one cat small pieces ( 5mm) of a brightly colored non-toxic child’s crayon that will show up in the faeces. If you find urine puddles in the house, it is important to find out if it is spraying or normal urinating. You could set up  a video camera when you’re not around, if you don’t see your cat in the act.

 

 

You should always take your cat to the vet, as soon as you have noticed a problem, so that they can rule out medical causes of the abnormal behaviour.

 

If there is no medical problem, then the following may help-

 

  • Is there one type of surface upon which your cat eliminates?  You could change your litter to match the surface. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter, and put apiece of carpet in her litter tray. If she likes smooth, shiny surfaces, try putting tiles in her box, covered with only a small amount of litter. Gradually add more litter.
  • Is there a certain location she prefers? . Try placing a litter tray in her preferred location. Once she regularly uses it, gradually move the box  a few inches a day back to the original location. Stop moving the tray if she stops using it;  move it back to the spot where she last used it, then gradually begin moving it again.
  • If you have multiple pets, your pet may be afraid of being attacked in or near the litter tray. If you are using a covered litter tray, try using an uncovered one that gives her a better view all around. Make sure that it is positioned so that there are multiple exits for your pet, and palce multiple litter trays around the house ( ideally one per cat plus one extra one).
  • Make sure the litter tray is regularly cleaned, – if your cat eliminates near the box he may not like the smell or the type of litter, and if you change the type of litter do so gradually over a few days.

 

 

The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat’s point of view, covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be three litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her own.

 

  • How can I stop my cat from spraying?
    Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to manage it. Firstly your cat should be neutered. Next, identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are responsible, you can try using Feliway spray around the doors and windows to mask the scent of other cats. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape.

 

 

Increasing play with your cat may help, and introduce any new diets gradually.

 

Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated, each with their own safe area or room, and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.

 

Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Feliway, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions., and this may reduce spraying.

 

  • What about drug therapy?
    Spraying may be responsive to certain anti-anxiety drugs . However, medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in conjunction with environmental changes.

 

  • What can I use to clean my  carpets, sofa, and other household items?
    Cats often toilet or spray areas previously impregnated with their scent. So cleaning is important and should be performed as soon as possible.  The smell needs to be neutralised as well as cleaning the area. Washing powder can be used to clean and deodorise, but  avoid cleaning products containing ammonia or vinegar—they can smell like urine to cats.

 

  • Other Suggestions

 

 

  • A sheet or two of  plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper,  may  discourage your cat from entering a solied area.
  • You could try placing food bowls or toys in the area that is being toileted.
  • You may be able to prevent access to a room by closing doors.
  • It you catch your cat  in the act of soiling you could shake a jar of coins to startle him, and so deter him. This is only useful if it is done DURING the act of soiling.
  • Never shout or hit your cat- this may actually make things worse by scaring him.

 

 

 

How to  prevent litter box problems

 

1. Choosing an appropriate litter and box

 

  • Most cats prefer unscented, finer-textured litter, at a depth of one to two inches.
  • Young kittens, elderly cats, and cats with mobility problems need boxes with low sides.
  • Overweight and large cats need bigger boxes.
  • Most cats prefer an uncovered box that lets odors escape and allows a 360-degree view of their surroundings.
  • Have as many litter boxes as cats in the house-plus one additional one.

 

 

2. Choosing a good litter box location

 

  • Most cats prefer a location that is quiet, private, separate from their feeding area, and easily accessible 24 hours a day.
  • Do not place the litter box up or down stairs if your cat has trouble climbing.
  • Place multiple boxes in different areas of the house.

 

 

3. Keeping the box clean

 

  • Remove faeces and soiled litter daily and add clean litter as needed.
  • To clean the box, scrub it with a gentle detergent, dry it, and refill with clean litter. Litter should be changed often enough so that it looks and smells dry and clean. The more cats using the box, the more often this will need to be done.
  • Change old boxes that smell or are cracked.

 

 

Breaking a bad habit can take a while and may require patience. However it is generally worthwhile making an appointment to check your cat has not got any medical conditions that may be aggravating the problem.

 

Tabby and white cat

Cat carriers- your cat can enjoy it !

cat vet in Ealing

 

  • Many people will know how difficult and stressful it can be sometimes to get your cat into a basket.    So is it a good idea to bring your basket out the night before a visit to the vets to “get your cat used to it”. The answer is a definite NO.  This will probably result in your cat hiding away. The problem is that cats often take quite a bit of time to adjust to something new.  A trip to the loft, or cellar to get the basket, and the noise of the basket door being opened can all be associated in the cats mind with a bad memories of previous trips, and can result in your cat becoming more anxious.

 

  • So what can you do to make the experience easier for all involved ?

 

  • To get your cat used to the basket is going to take some weeks.  The basket should be left open in the kitchen, near any feeding bowls. Some really good treats should be left near the door of the basket ( and nowhere else). Once your cat has got used to eating treats from near the door of the basket ( at least a week but may take longer) then start putting some treats inside the carrier for your cat to retrieve.  This needs to be a long term plan , if possible so that your cat starts to associate the basket with pleasant memories of tasty treats.

 

  • If you don’t have time to go through this process before a visit to the vets or the cattery, you can use a spray called Feliway  (containing cat pheromones or scent) which can help your cat feel calmer and less stressed  whilst in the basket. You should also place a blanket or towel from home in the carrier to reassure them.

 

  • Top loading baskets may be easier to lift your cat into and out of then end opening baskets. Yourbasket should be big enough for the size of your cat (there is a surprising variety in normal adult size and weight of cats ranging from 3.5- 8kg).  A towel to cover the basket  may be helpful to stop your cat becoming more anxious after seeing other cats and dogs in the surgery.

 

 

 

 

 

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Feeding cats and dogs- which food to choose

feeding your dog

 

  • There are many diet foods available for your pet and sometimes the choice can be confusing.

 

  • If you have a new puppy or kitten, you should if possible try to continue the food that they were fed by the breeder at least for the first few days. If this is not possible, then cooked chicken or fish is a suitable starting food for kittens and puppies for their first few days.  Boiled rice can be added for puppies also.  This is also suitable for any older pet that has vomiting or diarrhoea as it is light and easily digested.   After a few days on this light food, a new food may be introduced gradually over a few days. Generally we recommend to  feed puppies 4 x daily until 3 months old, 3x daily until 6 months old and 2x daily until one year old. After one year you may feed dogs once or twice daily.  Kittens can be fed 3x daily until fully grown around 10 months and then 2x daily as adults.

 

  • There is no one food that is best for all pets, and so it may sometimes be necessary to try a few before you find the most suitable one for your pet. Complete dry foods are convenient and can help in keeping healthy teeth and gums. Wet foods in pouches or tins may be more palatable to some pets, but some brands can be higher in fat content, which may not suit all pets.  A mix of wet and dry foods can be used. It is always a good idea to give at least some dried food to help with teeth and gums.

 

 

  • All of the major brands of pet food should contain the correct amount of vitamins and minerals, and vitamin supplements are rarely necessary. It is important not to give calcium supplements to growing dogs as they can cause problems with the joints by causing too rapid growth.

 

  • Raw meat diets are available for dogs, but we generally do not recommend them as there are risks of infection to both your pets and yourselves from handling raw meat.

 

  • The amount to feed your pet will depend on the weight of your pet and the diet being fed. There should be guides on the food packaging, but the best way to determine the correct amount is to weigh your pet regularly and ensure that as an adult their weight remains fairly stable.

 

  • We are always happy to weigh your pet at our surgeries if you do not have accurate scales or need large scales for your pet. Just bring your pet in during our normal consulting times to be weighed.  We are also happy to give more detailed advise on suitable diets for your pets. Just drop in to one of our surgeries. We stock a range of  Hills veterinary foods, but can advise on other brands. We also stock a range of prescription diets suitable  for a range of medical condition, such as kidney problems, liver problems, diabetes, intestinal problems, obesity  and arthritis.

 

 

dog in xmas jumper

Festive tips and Christmas opening times

 

christmas pic

 

Merry Christmas from all at Young Veterinary Partnership !

 

We hope you have a great Christmas, but please remember to take care with hazardous  foods and plants – dark chocolate, grapes, Christmas cake, Stollen, mince pies can all be toxic to dogs. Holly, mistletoe and ivy are also toxic to dogs. Lillies and Pointsettia are toxic to cats. Take care that your cats do not swallow ribbon, string or thread as they can cause severe obstructions.

 

Surgery Opening Times:

Saturday 23rd Dec – Normal opening hours.

Sunday 24th (Christmas Eve) – Emergency service only – Emergency consults from 10:00am – 12:00md at our Ealing surgery.

Christmas Day – Emergency Service Only.

Tuesday 26th – (Boxing Day) – Emergency Service Only – Emergency consults from 10:00am – 11:00am at our Ealing surgery.

Wednesday 27th – Normal opening hours.

Thursday 28th – Normal opening hours.

Friday 29th – Normal opening hours.

Saturday 30th December – Normal opening hours.

Sunday 31st (New Years Eve) – Emergency Service Only – Emergency consults from 10:00am – 12:00md at our Ealing surgery.

Monday 1st January (New Years Day) – Emergency Service Only – Emergency consults at our Ealing surgery 10:00am – 11:00am.

Tuesday 2nd – Normal opening hours.

 

For your peace of mind there is a vet on call for emergencies over the Christmas period, please see Emergency Out Of Hours Service for more details. Please phone the normal surgery number, and an answer message will give you the mobile number for the on call vet.

 

 

 

We hope you and your pets have a joyful festive period and we look forward to seeing  you again  in the New Year.
With our best wishes,

Matthew Wilson, Anthony Young and all at Young Veterinary Partnership

Epilepsy in pets.

Dog and cat seizures (fits) and epilepsy

epilepsy in dogs

 

 

 

  • Epilepsy is the most common chronic neurological disorder in dogs. It causes fits (seizures) in affected dogs, which often occur when they are resting. The fits usually last a few minutes only, and dogs may be confused for 5-15 minutes afterwards.  If your dog has a seizure lasting more than 5 minutes you shuld call your vet and arrange to take your pet immediately to the surgery.  We recommend if your dog has a seizure, they are left quietly with the lights off, ensuring they cannot fall down any steps or stairs. As they can be confused afterwards there is a risk of being bitten, so they should be left to recover alone. Occasionally a dog will have one seizure,  and will never have  another one, but in most cases the seizures will recur. Epilepsy usually starts in younger dogs.

 

  • Cats may also have seizures, due to epilepsy although it is much less common than in dogs. Older cats may also have seizures, but this is more commonly due to other medical problems. If your cat has a seizure they should be left alone to recover, with the lights turned out, ensuring that they cannot fall . A seizure will generally only last a minute or two.

 

 

  • Diagnosis of epilepsy-  there is no single test for epilepsy so we rely on ruling out other potential causes of seizures.  It is most helpful to take a video clip with your mobile phone of the fit so that the vet can see exactly what happens during the seizure.  Diagnosis of epilepsy  generally involves blood tests, and may include urine tests, x-rays and spinal fluid analysis. MRI scans may be performed to rule out brain tumours ( although rare in younger dogs and cats).

 

 

 

  • Treatment of epilepsy is generally recommended if your pet has more than 1 seizure per month, or if your pet has cluster seizures  (one immediately after another). Once treatment is started it is usually lifelong. Happily most pets with epilepsy will live fairly normal lifespans with medical treatment.

 

 

 www.youngvets.co.uk

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New Pet Healthcare Club launched

Pet Healthcare Club

 

We are pleased to announce the launch of our new Pet Healthcare club.

 

  • This is an easy way to budget for your pet’s essential health care needs. Our new Pet Healthcare Club is a scheme offering essential veterinary care at a reduced price. In return for a monthly fee collected by direct debit, you can save up to 40% off the costs of routine veterinary treatments.

 

  • The Pet Healthcare Club covers the essential treatments your pet needs throughout life, such as vaccinations, flea and worm treatments and free 6 monthly health checks. Extra benefits of the plan include discounts on many other products and services at the practice. Follow the links below  to find out more about what’s included. We can even send you e-mail and text reminders so you don’t forget to treat your pet on time!

 

Look after your pet and your pocket!

  • Our  Ealing and Hounslow surgeries are each the longest standing and largest veterinary practices in their respective boroughs. We also have longstanding practices in Chiswick and Brentford. We have an established reputation for providing excellent veterinary care and great service, our clients choose us because we include them in everything we do for their pet. For details of locations and appointment times please go to our contact us page.

 

  • At Young Veterinary Partnership we want to make preventative health care easy and affordable, to help you give your pets the best possible care. We believe that disease prevention is much better than cure and that early diagnosis of health problems will help your pet to live a long and healthy life.

 

  • The Pet Healthcare Club covers the essential treatments your pet needs throughout life, such as vaccinations, flea and worm treatments and regular health checks. Extra benefits of the plan include discounts on many other products and services at the practice. Follow the links above to find out more about what’s included. We can even send you e-mail and text reminders so you don’t forget to treat your pet on time!

 

  • Download a form here to join today.