Category Archives: cats

Tick remover

Tick borne disease in dogs and tick treatments

tick

Tick borne diseases

At the present time, the risk of your pet picking up any disease from ticks in the London area is still  low.  Lyme disease can be spread to pets and people from ticks, but we have not seen any cases of pets picking up this disease whilst living in the London area to date. However we are aware that Lyme disease may be present in ticks in Richmond park,  and may be present in other parks particularly where deer are present, and so we do recommend tick treatments in these areas.

 

  • A new tick borne disease called Babesiosis which uptil now had not been found in the UK,  has recently been reported to have been found in four dogs in Harlow, Essex  that had not travelled abroad.  It can cause a severe anaemia, which can be fatal. The risk of picking up any disease in the London area remains very low at the present time, but we will monitor for any changes in the situation, and will post again if this changes.

 

  • If you see a tick on your pet- we suggest removing them with an O’Tom tick twister which you can purchase from the surgery, which slides under the body of the tick and by twisting causes the tick to release its grasp on the skin. You should not pull them out with tweezers as this can leave the head in the skin which may cause a reaction. If you would like to use other tick prevention/ killing products with or without Advocate or Stronghold, the most effective options are the Seresto collar for cats and dogs lasting 7 months, Bravecto tablet lasting 2-3 months for dogs only , or Advantix spot on monthly for dogs.

 

tick remover for dog and cat

O’Tom Tick twister

Lily

Microchipping – law changes

  • From April 6th 2016 all dogs must be microchipped and registered on a commercial database, by 8 weeks of age. Further if a dog’s ownership is transferrred, the owner has a further duty to register the microchip with the new owner.

 

How a microchip works

A microchip is the size of a grain of rice.

 

  • Although there is no requirement in law at the present time, we also recommend microchipping all cats.

 

  • A microchip is roughly the size of a grain of rice and is placed under the skin between the shoulder blades. The procedure  is very quick (only taking a few seconds) . The microchip contains a 15 digit unique number that will be registered on a national database, together with the owner’s details. It is not a GPS tracker device. It does however ensure permanent identification for your pet, and the number is easily read  in seconds  by passing a reader device over the skin .

 

  • We regularly have strays handed into our surgeries and the first thing we check them for is a microchip. It is very important to keep your information up to date on your pets microchip – don’t forget – if you move house, get a new phone number, change your email address – make sure you change your pets microchip information so you can always be contacted.

 

  • This will provide many benefits especially in re-uniting injured pets and strays with their owners. Approximately 126000 stray dogs were handled by UK authorities in 2010-2011 and 52% were unable to be returned to their owners as they were unidentifiable.
Treacle hiding

Kitten care- training, feeding, vaccinating, fleas

 

 

Feeding

Try to continue the same food that the breeder was feeding at least in the first few days. You may then mix in a new kitten food if you would like to change it over the next few days. Kitten food will have all the nutrients and vitamins they require, and vitamin supplements are not needed. If your kitten develops diarrhoea, you should stop the kitten food and feed boiled chicken or fish for a couple of days. Cats do not need milk once they are eating kitten food and it can cause diarrhoea. Fresh tap water should be available at all times. Continue feeding 3x daily until 6 months old, and then 2x daily.  Dry food is better for your cats teeth as they get older and may be more convenient in warmer weather than wet food, but a mix of wet and dry may be offered.

 

Black and white cat

Black and white cat Minnie Moo

 

  • Worming

Most kittens will have worms which have been passed from their mum. They will need worming when acquired ( usually around 8-9 weeks of age), with either  tablets or more commonly a spot on treatment from the vet.

 

 

  • Vaccinations

Are strongly recommended to protect your kitten from air born viruses such as cat flu, and cat enteritis (diarrhoea). Leukaemia vaccination’s are also usually included, and recommended for any cat that will go outdoors. Yearly vaccination boosters are required to maintain their immunity.

 

 

  • Training

Kittens are not as easy to train as dogs – cats are just more independent ! However they should be provided with cat scratching posts, and should have lots of toys to play with. A piece of paper rolled up into a ball can give a lot of fun! Avoid playing with cotton thread or wool as they are dangerous if swallowed. If they are badly behaved with biting an scratching, do not tell them off as they won’t understand and it may make them fearful. Just ignore them by leaving the room or by putting them in an area by themselves.

 

 

  • Flea treatment

Should be used regularly particularly for outdoor cats ( but indoor cats may also pick up fleas, possibly brought in on clothing, or by other pets). We generally recommend monthly spot on treatment with Stronghold ( which also treats the common worms -roundworm), but flea injections given every 6 months are also available. Flea collars and most flea treatments from supermarkets are ineffective, and flea treatments from the vet are far more effective in preventing flea infestations occurring.

 

 

For further information on kitten and cat care see our blogs  on

 

 

How to stop kittens and cats scratching furniture

Tips to stop your cat spraying or toileting in the house

How to train your kitten to play without biting

Choosing a kitten – top ten tips

Cat carriers- how to get your kitten or cat to enjoy going in

 

Black cat Louis

Tips to stop your cat spraying or toileting in the house!

cat litter 1

 

 

  • Why do cats urinate or toilet outside of their litter tray?

A common misconception is that cats may be punishing you as their owner, for leaving them alone for too long. Cats do not do this, there will always be another reason.

 

  • Medical Problems

Cystitis causes an increased urgency, but normally with blood in the urine. Kidney problems, thyroid problems may cause your pet to drink more and so need to urinate more.

 

  • Cat litter box problems-


 

1-Cats may not like using a soiled litter tray,  clean it out frequently. Do not use ammonia containing detergents in the box as to the cat it may smell like cat urine ( which contains ammonia).

 

2-If the sides of the box are too high, an elderly cat may struggle to get into it, or a small kitten may have difficulty.

 

3-The type of litter used

Finer clumping litter or coarse non clumping litter may be preferred by an individual cat. Try different types of litter

Avoid using scented litter. Most cats prefer non-scented litter.

 

 

4-The location of the litter box

 

Avoid placing the litter tray in a noisy, busy or dark area.

If another cat, dog, or human scares your cat when she’s in the box, or attacks her as she leaves, she may not want to use the litter box.

 

 

5-Cats that do not want to use the litter tray usually toilet on different surfaces. You may find  urine and/or faeces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing, or on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on the severity of your cat’s aversion, he may continue to use the litter box, but intermittently.

 

 

  • Inappropriate Site Preferences

Your cat may prefer using another surface, for instance carpets- and if so would not use a tiled bathroom floor. Alternatively your cat may choose to use the same inappropriate site – likely due to not wanting to use the litter tray. Unfortunately a medical problem such as cystitis may lead on to another problem such as preferring to use another type of surface.

 

  • Urine Spraying

If your cat rubs with his cheek, or scratches a surface, they are leaving their scent on the area. Similarly cats will sometimes spray small amounts of urine to leave their scent. This marks out their territory.

 

When cats spray it is  usually  on vertical surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls. They don’t crouch down to spray (as they do to urinate), but lift the tail which quivers, leaving a small patch  of urine, often in the same places in the house.  Un-neutered males and sometimes, un-spayed females spray most commonly, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of neutered females also spray. In households with multiple cats (particularly more than 7) the likelyhood of spraying is markedly increased.

 

Cats often spray when if their territory is threatened, such as when a new cat enters the home, or when neighbourhood cats come into their garden or house. New furniture and carpet smells may induce spraying behaviour.  Cats also may spray if their routine is altered, such as a significant reduction in food availability.

 

 

  • My cat is not using the litter box reliably. What should I do?
    The longer the cat has had the problem, the more likely it is to become habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to separate them until you can be sure which one is causing the problem. If it is a faecal soiling problem,  you can feed one cat small pieces ( 5mm) of a brightly colored non-toxic child’s crayon that will show up in the faeces. If you find urine puddles in the house, it is important to find out if it is spraying or normal urinating. You could set up  a video camera when you’re not around, if you don’t see your cat in the act.

 

 

You should always take your cat to the vet, as soon as you have noticed a problem, so that they can rule out medical causes of the abnormal behaviour.

 

If there is no medical problem, then the following may help-

 

  • Is there one type of surface upon which your cat eliminates?  You could change your litter to match the surface. If she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter, and put apiece of carpet in her litter tray. If she likes smooth, shiny surfaces, try putting tiles in her box, covered with only a small amount of litter. Gradually add more litter.
  • Is there a certain location she prefers? . Try placing a litter tray in her preferred location. Once she regularly uses it, gradually move the box  a few inches a day back to the original location. Stop moving the tray if she stops using it;  move it back to the spot where she last used it, then gradually begin moving it again.
  • If you have multiple pets, your pet may be afraid of being attacked in or near the litter tray. If you are using a covered litter tray, try using an uncovered one that gives her a better view all around. Make sure that it is positioned so that there are multiple exits for your pet, and palce multiple litter trays around the house ( ideally one per cat plus one extra one).
  • Make sure the litter tray is regularly cleaned, – if your cat eliminates near the box he may not like the smell or the type of litter, and if you change the type of litter do so gradually over a few days.

 

 

The box itself may be the offender. Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes for reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat’s point of view, covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter to determine which combination your cat likes best. Finally, provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house—plus one. For example, if you have two cats, there should be three litter boxes. This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her own.

 

  • How can I stop my cat from spraying?
    Because spraying is different than other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to manage it. Firstly your cat should be neutered. Next, identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats are responsible, you can try using Feliway spray around the doors and windows to mask the scent of other cats. Additionally, you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds or shades, or by placing double-sided tape.

 

 

Increasing play with your cat may help, and introduce any new diets gradually.

 

Spraying can also result from territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may need to be separated, each with their own safe area or room, and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to reward and encourage peaceful behavior.

 

Applying odor neutralizers anywhere your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again. Feliway, a synthetic pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the scent of cat cheek gland secretions., and this may reduce spraying.

 

  • What about drug therapy?
    Spraying may be responsive to certain anti-anxiety drugs . However, medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in conjunction with environmental changes.

 

  • What can I use to clean my  carpets, sofa, and other household items?
    Cats often toilet or spray areas previously impregnated with their scent. So cleaning is important and should be performed as soon as possible.  The smell needs to be neutralised as well as cleaning the area. Washing powder can be used to clean and deodorise, but  avoid cleaning products containing ammonia or vinegar—they can smell like urine to cats.

 

  • Other Suggestions

 

 

  • A sheet or two of  plastic, newspaper, or sandpaper,  may  discourage your cat from entering a solied area.
  • You could try placing food bowls or toys in the area that is being toileted.
  • You may be able to prevent access to a room by closing doors.
  • It you catch your cat  in the act of soiling you could shake a jar of coins to startle him, and so deter him. This is only useful if it is done DURING the act of soiling.
  • Never shout or hit your cat- this may actually make things worse by scaring him.

 

 

 

How to  prevent litter box problems

 

1. Choosing an appropriate litter and box

 

  • Most cats prefer unscented, finer-textured litter, at a depth of one to two inches.
  • Young kittens, elderly cats, and cats with mobility problems need boxes with low sides.
  • Overweight and large cats need bigger boxes.
  • Most cats prefer an uncovered box that lets odors escape and allows a 360-degree view of their surroundings.
  • Have as many litter boxes as cats in the house-plus one additional one.

 

 

2. Choosing a good litter box location

 

  • Most cats prefer a location that is quiet, private, separate from their feeding area, and easily accessible 24 hours a day.
  • Do not place the litter box up or down stairs if your cat has trouble climbing.
  • Place multiple boxes in different areas of the house.

 

 

3. Keeping the box clean

 

  • Remove faeces and soiled litter daily and add clean litter as needed.
  • To clean the box, scrub it with a gentle detergent, dry it, and refill with clean litter. Litter should be changed often enough so that it looks and smells dry and clean. The more cats using the box, the more often this will need to be done.
  • Change old boxes that smell or are cracked.

 

 

Breaking a bad habit can take a while and may require patience. However it is generally worthwhile making an appointment to check your cat has not got any medical conditions that may be aggravating the problem.

 

Tabby and white cat

Cat carriers- your cat can enjoy it !

cat vet in Ealing

 

  • Many people will know how difficult and stressful it can be sometimes to get your cat into a basket.    So is it a good idea to bring your basket out the night before a visit to the vets to “get your cat used to it”. The answer is a definite NO.  This will probably result in your cat hiding away. The problem is that cats often take quite a bit of time to adjust to something new.  A trip to the loft, or cellar to get the basket, and the noise of the basket door being opened can all be associated in the cats mind with a bad memories of previous trips, and can result in your cat becoming more anxious.

 

  • So what can you do to make the experience easier for all involved ?

 

  • To get your cat used to the basket is going to take some weeks.  The basket should be left open in the kitchen, near any feeding bowls. Some really good treats should be left near the door of the basket ( and nowhere else). Once your cat has got used to eating treats from near the door of the basket ( at least a week but may take longer) then start putting some treats inside the carrier for your cat to retrieve.  This needs to be a long term plan , if possible so that your cat starts to associate the basket with pleasant memories of tasty treats.

 

  • If you don’t have time to go through this process before a visit to the vets or the cattery, you can use a spray called Feliway  (containing cat pheromones or scent) which can help your cat feel calmer and less stressed  whilst in the basket. You should also place a blanket or towel from home in the carrier to reassure them.

 

  • Top loading baskets may be easier to lift your cat into and out of then end opening baskets. Yourbasket should be big enough for the size of your cat (there is a surprising variety in normal adult size and weight of cats ranging from 3.5- 8kg).  A towel to cover the basket  may be helpful to stop your cat becoming more anxious after seeing other cats and dogs in the surgery.

 

 

 

 

 

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Laser therapy for arthritis and wound healing

  • We are pleased to announce that we can now provide non surgical Laser therapy for your pets from our Ealing surgery, using a state of the art Class 4 laser. These are widely used in human medicine and can now be used to benefit your dog or cat.

 

  • This can be particularly useful in both dogs and cats for arthritis,  to speed wound healing or recovery from general surgery or after fracture treatment,   lick granulomas in dogs,  chronic gingivitis in cats,  and for many other conditions. It is a quick and painless procedure and can be performed as an out-patient in our nurse clinics.

 

  • Please phone our Ealing surgery for further details or to make an appointment on 0208 5670711.

laser therapy dog
laser therapy cat

 

Healing your pain… changing your life.

 

About K-Laser

 

What is Laser Therapy?

Laser Therapy, or “photobiomodulation”, is the use of specific wavelengths of light (red and near-infrared) to create therapeutic effects. These effects include improved healing time, pain reduction, increased circulation and decreased swelling. Laser Therapy has been widely utilized in Europe by physical therapists, nurses and doctors as far back as the 1970’s. Now, after FDA clearance in 2002, Laser Therapy is being used extensively in the United States.

 

Patient Benefits of Laser Therapy

Laser Therapy is proven to biostimulate tissue repair and growth. The Laser accelerates wound healing and decreases inflammation, pain, and scar tissue formation. In the management of chronic pain Class IV Laser Therapy can provide dramatic results, is non-addictive and virtually free of side effects.

 

Has effectiveness been demonstrated scientifically?

Yes. There are thousands of published studies demonstrating the clinical effectiveness of Laser Therapy. Among these, there are more than one hundred rigorously controlled, scientific studies that document the effectiveness of laser for many clinical conditions.

 

Cellular Effects of Laser Therapy

During Laser Therapy the infrared laser light interacts with tissues at the cellular level and metabolic activity increases within the cell, improving the transport of nutrients across the cell membrane. This initiates the production of cellular energy (ATP) that leads to a cascade of beneficial effects, increasing cellular function and health.

 

Laser Therapeutic Effects

During each painless treatment laser energy increases circulation, drawing water, oxygen, and nutrients to the damaged area. This creates an optimal healing environment that reduces inflammation, swelling, muscle spasms, stiffness, and pain. As the injured area returns to normal, function is restored and pain is relieved.

 

How many treatments does it take? This depends on the nature of the condition being treated. For some acute conditions 1 to 6 treatments may be sufficient. Those of a more chronic nature may require 10 to 15 (or more) treatments. Conditions such as severe arthritis may require ongoing periodic care to control pain.

 

How long before the results are felt? You may feel improvement in your condition (usually pain reduction) after the very first treatment. Sometimes you will not feel improvement for a number of treatments. This does not mean that nothing is happening. Each treatment is cumulative and results are often felt after 3 or 4 sessions.

 

Can it be used in conjunction with other forms of treatment? Yes! Laser Therapy is often used with other forms of therapy, including physical therapy, chiropractic adjustments, massage, soft tissue mobilization, electrotherapy and even following surgery. Other healing modalities are complementary and can be used with laser to increase the effectiveness of the treatment.

 

 

Laser therapy was born from scientific research over 30 years ago in Europe and perfected by K-LaserUSA with the latest technological advancements.

 

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Top winter tips for your pet

vet in ealing

 

  • Often in the winter period we see a large number of flea related problems. Once your central heating is put on, any flea eggs in the house will hatch out resulting in large numbers of fleas appearing. Each individual flea can lay hundreds of eggs in the house which are resistant to virtually all cleaning methods.  We strongly recommend that you treat your pet with a spot on flea treatment from the surgery (in our experience supermarket brands tend to be of an inferior quality to our recommended products) and use a household flea spray on the carpets and floors.

 

  • Many people find their pets slow down in the colder weather.  In middle aged and older animals this may be related to underlying arthritis.  With dogs it is usually more obvious as it causes stiffness getting up or limping when walking. Cats however often hide signs of arthritis. They may be reluctant to jump onto surfaces or may not be able to jump as high as they used to.

 

  • Weight control is very important if your pets do have arthritis, so try not to give too many treats over the winter period ! We have special diet foods for both dogs and cats which are generally much more effective in achieving weight loss than simply reducing their current food or using the supermarket light diet foods.

 

  • Nutritional supplements can be given to both dogs and cats for arthritis, and may be benefiicial. It is important to use high quality supplements as the effectiveness of these can vary greatly. We generally recommend  supplements such as  Nutraquin +  but can advise on a range of supplements to help you find the best one for your pet.

 

  • Anti-inflammatory medications may also be beneficial for both dogs and cats with arthritis, either for short term or long term use. Remember NEVER give human anti-inflammatory medications to pets unless directed specifically by the vet. Some human medications are highly toxic to pets (for instance paracetamol is often  fatal if given to  cats).

 

  • Laser therapy ( non surgical light therapy) can be beneficial for arthritis, which we are able to perform with our class 4 laser at our Ealing surgery.

 

  • Regular exercise is also important for dogs to maintain mobility in the colder months. Frequent short walks may be better than one longer walk.

 

  • Medical problems other than arthritis may cause your pet to slow down, and so it is important that your pet is checked by a vet before starting treatment for arthritis.

 

  • Finally a reminder that Christmas cake, Christmas pudding, Stollen mince pies and chocolate can all be poisonous to dogs. Poisonous plants include holly, ivy and mistletoe.  Pointsettia and lillies are toxic to cats.

 

  • Please feel free to call us if you would like advice on any of the issues we have raised. Just click on the link to our website below for details of your surgery. We are here to help.

 

  • With festive wishes from all the team at Young Veterinary Partnership.  We look forward to continuing to care for your pet in the coming year.
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How to help your pets cope with fireworks

fireworks dog

 

 

  • Every year we receive a number of requests for help from owners who are worried about how their pets react to fireworks. Both cats and dogs can suffer from noise related phobias around this time and it is important to plan in advance if you want to tackle this problem.

 

 

  • After the fireworks begin, your pet may begin to show odd behaviour such as restlessness, making excessive noise or hiding away in a corner. If you have noticed any of these signs in the past, there are a few things that you could do to reduce their stress this year.

 

 

  • Keep all of your pets inside during firework displays. Ensure that any windows or cat flaps are shut and that the curtains are drawn.

 

 

  • Take your dog for a walk before the fireworks begin so that they are not startled whilst they are outside

 

 

  •  It is important for you to remain in the house with your pet during any firework displays, but try not to act any differently towards them. If you act normally, your pet will feel calmer.

 

 

  •  If your pet prefers to hide somewhere in the house, just let them hide and they will come out when they feel safer.

 

 

  •  Try offering your pet a distraction. Treats or a toy can help them to feel more relaxed, but do not try and force them to play.

 

 

  •  Do not punish your pet for their behaviour during firework night, as this can lead to worsening anxiety.

 

 

  • It is important to stress again that if your pet prefers to hide, do not try to force them to sit with you. If you have enough time, try creating a safe place for them to hide in before the fireworks begin. You could use your dog’s crate or bed if they have one, or if you have a cat, a large cardboard box will do. Try and line them with blankets or towels that your pet is used to sleeping on, as these will smell comforting. Do not force your animal into the safe place, as again this can make them feel uneasy.

 

 

  • Ensure that each pet has a separate hiding place and that cats have an opportunity to hide away from each other. Note that some cats actually prefer hiding somewhere high up, like on top of a wardrobe. Never shut your animal in a cage, or inside one room, as they will feel trapped.

 

 

  • There are also some supplements that you could try to help keep your pet calm.

 

 

  •  For dogs – ADAPTIL is a product that contains Dog Appeasing pheromone. It is a copy of a pheromone that a bitch releases to comfort her puppies and should help to reassure and calm your dog. It comes as a plug –in, a spray or a collar. Adaptil should be started 2 weeks before firework season for maximal effect.

 

 

  •  For cats – FELIWAY is a product that contains facial pheromones. These are pheromones that your cat will leave on an object when they rub their head against it, and will make them feel safe and secure. This comes as a plug-in or a spray. Feliway should be started 2 weeks before firework season for maximal effect.

 

 

  •  For both dogs and cats – ZYLKENE is a supplement derived from milk proteins that can help to make your pet feel more relaxed. These supplements should be started at least 1-2 days before any fireworks are expected.

 

  • If your dog is very anxious we do on occasion dispense tranquilizers, but we would advise that the above methods are tried if possible also.

 

  • It is possible to try to desensitize your pets to firework noises using a download available from itunes called ‘Sounds Scary’ although this may take some weeks to have  an effect.

 

 

Young Veterinary Partnership

www.youngvets.co.uk

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Avoiding pet poisons

poisons

 

There are many potential household and garden toxins or poisons that may harm cats and dogs.  We give you some tips on what to avoid, and what to do if your pet has been affected.

 

 

  • We are proud to offer an emergency service at Young Veterinary Partnership.  Unfortunately some clients have to use our emergency service when their pet is poisoned.  Whilst this is a situation we hope you won’t have to go through with your precious pet, poisons that are harmful to pets are commonly found in everyday household substances and products. We hope this newsletter will help you to understand some of the common poisons and explain what you should do in an emergency to minimise the risk to your pet.

 

 

  • There are a few keys things we may ask over the phone which help us to assess the immediate situation.
  • When do you think the toxin was ingested/in contact with your pet? Some specific toxins may have an anti-toxin which we can administer.
  • What was it? Bring any packaging with you if you can.
  • Make a note of any clinical signs such as vomiting, diarrhoea, shaking, seizures, drooling, altered mentation (behaving strangely), burns/ulcers in the mouth, pain, increased thirst, heavy breathing or difficulty breathing.

 

 

  • Poisonous foods include:

Raisins, Grapes, Onions, Chocolate, Alcohol, Leeks, Garlic.

 

  • Poisonous Plants include:

Lillies, Rhododendron , Azalea, Marijuana, Pointsetta, Yew, Deadly nightshade, Holly, Ivy, Mistletoe.

 

  • Other Poisons:

Rat poison, Paracetamol/Ibuprofen (paracetamol is often IMMEDIATELY FATAL to cats), Chewing gum (zylitol), Anti-freeze (ethylene glycol), Permethrin (poisonous in cats and in high quantities in dogs – often found in supermarket anti-flea products), Weed killers / herbicides (Paraquat/doquat), Blue-green Algae, Batteries, Lead, Insecticides (Organophosphates), Slug bait (Metaldehyde), Psoriasis creams (Vitamin D analogues), Bleach, Strong detergents.

 

  • What we can do:

If the toxin was ingested up to 2-3hrs ago we may administer a small injection which will make your pet vomit. This can stop any further toxin being absorbed into the stomach and intestines, but is not suitable for all toxins. After this we may try to feed your pet some adsorbents such as activated charcoal.  Adsorbents bind to any toxin left in the stomach and prevent any further digestion. If the toxin was on your pet’s skin we may instruct you to wash your pet with some warm mild shampoo.

 

  • Depending on how much toxin your pet has ingested we may do blood tests and keep your pet with us overnight on a drip. This helps to support the vital organs whilst the toxin is being broken down. We may also need to monitor your pet intensively for a few days whilst the toxin clears.

 

  • We hope this dispels some of the myths around poisons and explains how we can help.  We have extensive experience in dealing with cases of poison and we are here 24 hours a day to care for your pet.
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How to stop cats and kittens scratching furniture

 

 

People often think that when a cat scratches furniture it is doing so to sharpen its claws. In actual fact they are scenting the furniture using scent glands in their pads, as well as leaving a visual mark that they have been there. This is a normal cat behaviour, and would usually be done on trees in an outdoor situation. When they are kept indoors they tend to go through the same process, but unfortunately they may pick your best furniture to do so !

 

It is always easier to teach good habits when they are young, so we suggest starting teaching them good habits as early as possible. If your older cat already has a problem then we have a few tips to try to help improve the situation.

 

How to stop kittens scratching furniture

 

  • Place a few scratching posts in the areas of the house that they use most, particularly in areas they like to sleep and play.

 

  • Encourage them to use the scratching post by using dangle toys near the post or using catnip to scent the post. You can also use praise and cat treats when they use the scratching post.

 

  • Don’t force them to use the post as this may have the opposite effect.

 

How to stop cats with a habit of scratching furniture

 

  • Put a scratching post next to, or in front of the damaged furniture. Make sure it is of  a texture that the cat likes- some prefer loose weaved material, some prefer knobbly textures.

 

  • Cover  or move the damaged furniture, so the cat can’t get to it.  If covering you could use thick plastic, or another material that your cat won’t like the feel of, such as double sided sticky tape.

 

  • Make sure that scratching posts are in prominent areas that the cat likes to be in.

 

  • Feliway is a cat pheromone (scent) spray  that may help reduce scratching particularly in multi-cat households where stress may be a factor. You can purchase this from the surgery, and spray it onto the furniture daily for a month.