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Stress And Your Cat.

Stress And Your Cat.

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Stress And Your Cat.

Stress And Your Cat.

 

  • Is my cat stressed?

  • What is causing my cat to feel stressed?

  • How can I help my cat?

 

Just like humans, cats can get stressed out. While stress in cats doesn’t always materialise in the ways you might expect, if you know what to look for, it’s not too difficult to spot an anxious mog. It is important to keep an eye out for signs of stress in your cat; a stressed cat is an unhappy cat, and recent studies have shown that chronic, ongoing stress can cause stress-related diseases in cats, including skin problems and UTIs.

Is my cat stressed?

Cats are notoriously good at hiding their emotions, but it isn’t impossible to spot signs of feline anxiety. If your cat is displaying any of the behaviours listed below, you may find that the culprit is stress:

  • Unusual toileting behaviour. Many stressed cats express their anxieties by urinating outside the litter box (or in the house, if your cat is an outdoor cat), or worst still in your shoes or handbag.
  • Over-grooming. Cats groom themselves to self-soothe, so a cat that’s over-grooming may be under stress. A sure sign of excessive grooming is bald or thin patches of fur, which can be anywhere they can reach, most typically on their belly’s, the inside of their legs or their sides.
  • Of course, some cats are just loud. You know your cat – if they’re meowing and calling to you much more than usual, they could be trying to tell you something.
  • Excessive scratching. Cats often scratch themselves more than usual when they’re feeling stressed. If your cat’s up to date with their flea treatments, doesn’t have an allergy and is still scratching like mad, this could be a sign of stress.
  • Cats aren’t always the most sociable creatures, but neither is it usual for them to be hiding themselves away all of the time.
  • Lack of appetite. Decreased appetite in cats can be indicative of many different issues, including stress. This is definitely not a sign to ignore.
  • Just like humans, cats can lash out when they are under stress, both at humans and other animals.

 

Stressed cat

 

What is causing my cat to feel stressed?

If you can tick off more than one of the symptoms above, you may find you have got a stressed moggy. While anxiety in cats is reasonably common, it’s not normal, and the first step is identifying any possible causes for your cat’s stress. The most common causes of stress in cats usually boil down to one thing: change. Think hard to see if you’ve made any recent changes to your home or routine which might have affected your cat more than you think.

A big change for cats is the presence of new animals in the home; if you’ve brought home a new cat or another pet, this can be a major cause of stress for other pets. New family members, such as a baby, can cause feline stress too. The key thing here is to make sure your cat knows he’s still your number one; lots of love, attention, and cuddles are in order here. Be sure to make sure your cat still has lots of space, too – if you’ve introduced a second cat, make sure their food bowls are kept apart, and try to keep a separate litter tray for each cat, the ideal rule of thumb being to have one litter tray per cat plus another in your home. Importantly ensure they all have plenty of water, ideally in different containers, my cat loves to drink from pint glasses and I have learned the hard way to be very careful where I put them!

Other changes in your life can equally affect your cats. Moving to a new home may be just as stressful for your puss as it is for you; by keeping blankets, toys and furniture around that your cat already knows well, you can help to ease this transition and make your new house feel like home again. Even changing jobs could be the cause of your cat’s stress; cats are creatures of habit, and anything which changes your daily routine can throw a cat off. Try to keep your day as consistent as possible, and find a routine that works for you both going forward.

 

 

How can I help my cat?

If you can pinpoint the cause of your cat’s stress, you’re already halfway to fixing the problem. There are some more general ways that you can help your cat to feel calm and to prevent your cat from getting stressed in the future, too.

A simple option is to try a synthetic pheromone diffuser or spray such as Feliway. When a cat marks its territory, it releases facial pheromones which make the cat feel happy, calm, and relaxed. Synthetic copies of these pheromones are available as plug-in diffusers and sprays that you can use around the house to help your cat feel calmer. These products might not work for cats who have a deeper cause of their anxiety, but for many it may just do the trick.

It is also worth ensuring that your cats have as much space as possible. Don’t overcrowd your home with pets, and make sure that your cat always has somewhere quiet to retreat to if they are feeling overwhelmed or stressed. If you have got the space and you live in a safe enough area, getting your cats outdoors can do wonders for their mental health. Cats are naturally active, outdoorsy animals, and getting out into the wild is really how they love to spend their time.

A happy cat is a healthy cat.

If your cat is getting stressed, try not to beat yourself up about it. It is impossible to avoid all stress triggers all of the time; as a pet owner, all you can do is your best to make your pet’s life as happy and healthy as you can. If you have tried all of the above suggestions and your cat is still displaying the symptoms of stress, we would advise it is important to take them for a veterinary check-up to rule out any medical causes of their symptoms and to make sure that your cat’s anxiety isn’t making them ill.

 

If you have any concerns about your cat, do not hesitate to contact your local Young Vets surgery to get help and bring calm back into your home.

 

Blog and images supplied by Zoetis.

Written by Gemma Hopkins BVETMED, CERTVC, MRCVS

 

 

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Is your pet due a trip to the vet?

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We want your pet to be as happy to see us as we are to see them! 

One of the first things to help create this trust is to drop in, particularly when your pet is young  if you need a reason, our nurses and reception team love cuddles with your puppies and kittens and usually have a spare treat or two for them but we also offer free weight checks. This allows us to keep a record ensuring they’re growing up and gaining weight as they should be. 

If you are nervous about the visit don’t be! Our staff are highly experienced and have seen and heard it all. If it concerns you then please ask us , no question is too silly. Remain calm and ‘normal’ as your pet will pick up on any anxiety you may be feeling.

When visiting with cats we strongly recommend travelling your cat in a secure carrier not in your arms, even the calmest of cats can get stressed. If you have time, leave your carrier out a few days before your appointment, so your cat can climb in without being rushed. Try leaving a few treats and toys inside to tempt an investigation! Placing a towel over your carrier in the waiting room can help anxious cats – if you need one just ask us.

When travelling with dogs Invest in a doggie ‘seat belt’ or secure caged area of your car. If your dog suffers car sickness travel them on an empty stomach. Allow plenty of travel time so you are not rushed or late. Please keep your dog by your side in the waiting room. A vet practice can be a stressful place for pets and your laid back family dog could become stressed and snappy towards other dogs.

Practice ‘vet checks’ at home. Your pet is never to young or old to do this training: Gently look inside your pets eyes and ears, teeth and mouth, practice lifting each paw in turn and nail clipping this is something that can be done at home, check out our free guide> Cats and Dogs. Feel your pet all over from toe to tail. Spend 5 minutes a day practising the ‘all over’ handling and your pet will find an examination ‘normal’, when they come to us.

If you are coming in for a specific problem i.e. behaviour or tummy troubles  write a diary of events and problems. Try to include what foods they’ve eaten, treats, where they have been park , swimming, times of day all of these things may be useful when finding a diagnosis.

Please ask our vets to write notes for you to take home if you are concerned you may not remember something that was mentioned or bring a friend or family member for help and support.

We do our very best to ensure that you are seen on time at you appointment time but emergencies and unpredictable cases can happen so please bear with us, our reception team will endeavour to keep your updated if the consultations are running a few minutes late.

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How to train your kitten to play without biting

  • ninja kittens

 

  • Kittens and adult cats are much less likely to bite and scratch us if they have been socialised and handled well when young.

 

  • Kittens have two very important periods of socialisation when they learn normal behaviour, towards other cats and people. The first period is 2-7 weeks of age when handling by various people in a positive manner will increase the likelyhood of them having a friendly approach in future interactions with people.

 

  • Kittens continue to learn by social play  from the age of 7 weeks, and this peaks at around 9-14 weeks of age,  and so when most people first take home their new kitten around 8 weeks of age, they are still in this important socialization period.

 

  • You should not play with your kitten using your hands or feet, and you should not use rough play, whatever the age of the kitten. Instead we recommend the use of a “fishing rod” toy or something similar that induces chasing behaviour e.g. a ping-pong ball. If  your kitten displays pouncing, chasing or biting of human fingers and toes, then they should be ignored.  Kittens like attention so will realise they have done something wrong if you ignore them.  If you are holding your kitten when they bite  or scratch you, then put them down immediately and ignore them.  A few moments later a toy can be provided.  Once your kitten has finished playing and is tired out, you can then stroke and make a fuss of them.
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Kitten litter training

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Kitten litter training should  start as soon as you get them home, usually at 6-8 weeks old.

  • Place the litter tray away from the feeding area, in a quiet area, away from busy passageways.
  • Place the kitten on the litter tray immediately after each feed, and reward them with praise if they perform their toilet.
  • Clean the litter tray out daily (scooping out soiled areas and replacing with fresh litter), and completely wash the tray out once weekly.
  • Different types of litter are available,  but some cats may have a preference for a certain type.  I would suggest avoiding types with citrus fragrances. Clumping type sand like clay based litters are usually very well accepted.
  • Clean up any “accidents” with enzymatic washing powder and warm water. Do not use ammonia or hypochlorite containing bleach based disinfectants as they can smell to the kitten like another cats urine, and so encourage them to go toilet again in the same area.
  • You should have one litter tray per cat in the house plus one extra tray, in different locations.
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Puppy toilet training tips

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Puppy toilet training should begin as soon as you get them home.

Newspaper training

  • Place  newspaper on the kitchen floor, and after each meal pick him/her up and put them on the newspaper. If he urinates or defaecates on the paper reward him with attention such as “good boy!” and give him a little treat with one of his puppy biscuits.  Do this after each meal and he will soon learn that he is praised and receives a treat each time he does this.
  • If you come in and find that he hasn’t used the newspaper, do not tell him off, just ignore him for a few minutes. Being ignored is the best way of disciplining a puppy, as he really wants your attention.
  • Once he starts using the newspaper regularly, reduce the amount of paper put down and move it near to the back door.
  • When he is using this newspaper regularly, put some lightly soiled newspaper outside the back door and start placing him on this after each meal.
  • Once he has the hang of this remove the newspaper and start placing him further into the garden after each meal. It can help to put him on different surfaces so that he doesn’t develop a preference for doing it only on one surface. try concrete surfaces, grassed areas, areas with and without trees.
  • Finally you can start to vary the routines and vocal cues, so that he doesn’t become too habitual. This can help avoid problems in the future if his circumstances are changed, such as if an unfamiliar person is caring for them.

Crate training

Your puppy is introduced to a plastic crate or cage, by being fed in it, having toys thrown into it and eventually being closed in for short periods.

  • The crate should be large enough to turn around in, but should not be too large or your puppy may rest at one end and toilet in the other end.
  • After a few days you should be able to keep your puppy in the crate for a few hours.
  • You can work out the length of time between toileting for your puppy by using the number of months age, plus one if a small breed, or plus 2 if a large breed. Thus a 2 month old labrador can wait 4 hrs, but a 2 month old pekinese 3 hours.
  • The puppy should be taken outside to eliminate  and should be praised and then given a treat if it does so. It should also be taken outside after each play session and meal, but should be kept in the crate at all other times.

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Puppy and dog training tips

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Puppy training tips

 

Puppy and dog training is  essential for all, and time taken early on with the basics will go a long way to prevent behavioural problems developing later in adulthood.

 

 

  • Remember that there are only two basic training techniques-

 

 

  1. 1- reward  for good behaviour, and
  2. 2- being ignored if badly behaved.

 

 

  • Always reward your puppy/ dog with verbal praise FIRST and a small treat such as a dog biscuit SECOND, for any good behaviour. It is important that you consistently keep this order so that the dog can learn that verbal praise is likely to be immediately followed with a treat.  Treats should ONLY be given as rewards for good behaviour not just for being “cute and cuddly.”

 

 

  • Over time you should start rewarding good behaviour with praise only sometimes, and do not give a  treat every time, but this will only work if you have followed the guidance above regarding the order of rewards.

 

 

  • You should still follow praise with treats often enough to make the good behaviour for praise only, worthwhile to your dog. The combination of praise plus treat , and praise only, for good behaviour is more effective as a training method than giving a treat every time.

 

 

  • DO NOT shout or try to tell your dog off if badly behaved. They will think the attention they are getting is a reward, so your effort will be counter-productive.

 

 

  • If your puppy or dog is badly behaved, they should be ignored, and you may want to put them out of the room, or if using a crate you could put them in the crate.

 

 

  • Dogs behave like pack animals, and in any pack there will be a leader. The leader receives the most attention.

 

 

  • As your puppy grows into adulthood, sometimes they may try to become higher up your “family pack” and become dominant over one or more people in the house.

 

 

  • Male dogs can be prone to this type of behaviour. To prevent this happening it is important not to give immediate attention when they want it particularly when returning to the house or first thing in the morning.  I would suggest you make a drink and wait a few minutes for your dog to calm down and THEN turn around and greet the dog.

 

 

  • In this way attention is always given on your terms, and this reinforces the fact that your dog is the lowest member of your family pack. It is important that ALL family members follow this advice.

 

 

  • Finally puppy classes are excellent and important ways to socialise your puppy with other dogs and people and are best done at 10-16weeks of age.